In the gritty Regla neighborhood of Havana, just across a canal from the old city, the Church of Our Lady of Regla, or the Black Madonna, is one of the best-known holy spots where devout Santerios, as those who follow the sect are called, can become priests and priestesses. Signs of it are all over Cuba from colorfully dressed women who represent the goddesses associated with the religion to shrines in personal homes to ward off evil spirits with everything from votive candles to fruits and pastries. And Santería is not exactly a secret sect. In this country of seeming contradictions, freshly washed laundry wafts from the crumbling balconies of roofless, gutted buildings the infectious laughter of children playing echoes in the ruined streets, poverty and pride, oppression and hope commingle constantly.Īpparently devout Catholics mix in a little black magic to bolster their faith. There are also mementos like crutches, replicas of prized possessions, notes of petition, and even relics from Cuba’s 19th-century war for independence that Santería worshipers have left as thanks.Īll of which makes the lines between one Cuban’s religion and another Cuban’s superstition a little hard to draw in a culture where virtues and vices intertwine in ways almost inconceivable anywhere else in the world. (The medal subsequently was stolen and recovered under curious circumstances which still inspire local crime dramas, and is now kept under lock and key.) Other devout and famous Santería worshipers have left their Olympic medals and gold records at the shrine. It is here where Ernest Hemingway, who was known to be greatly influenced by Santería, left his Nobel Prize medal at the virgin’s feet. Nou sonde miwa o Legba e.HAVANA - On Tuesday, before Pope Francis leaves Cuba for the United States, he will be worshiping at the shrine of the Virgen de la Caridad del Cobre in Santiago, which is not only the Catholic shrine to Cuba’s patron saint but one of the most sacred spots in the country for worshipers of Santería, a sect that traces its magical roots back to Africa. Pray for blessings and/or what you need, but if Legba takes up your cause and brings those things into your life don’t forget about him! If you’re feeling generous, offer him a snack…he like plain peanuts, plain popcorn, roasted corn, and plantain or sweet banana.and a few silver coins for his time. Light a white candle at your door and make him a cup of sweet coffee (no milk) and have a chat with him. Since he is at the gate, anyone can speak with him and today is a good day for that. The Old Man is often whom people new to Vodou or curious about Vodou meets, as he is basically the bouncer who decides who comes in and who stays out. The crossroads are not his domain and he is not served there, but if Legba closes a/the door for you it will not open and all roads will be closed until he decides otherwise. If he does not open the door/gate, the lwa cannot pass and so he is vitally important to all ceremony and all vodouizan. Legba sits at the gate/door at the bottom of Gran Chemin, the road which the lwa walk down to speak with us. This was just before my kanzo, and while getting ready for kanzo was very difficult, I think it would have been that much harder if I had refused Legba when he was in need. He made his way down the line and we chatted for a moment before I gave him whatever I had within reach in the car. I was stuck in traffic in what is essentially Little Haiti in Boston, and on the traffic island was an older Haitian man on crutches begging for change. The first time I met Legba, it was while I was driving. For me, Legba appears as an old man who can barely walk (the most common ‘face’ of Legba) and so St Lazarus is the saint I most closely see him with. Bon fet St Lazarus! In Haitian Vodou, St Lazarus is one of many saints that Legba can walk with.
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